Doors take more abuse than almost anything else in a house. They’re opened and closed thousands of times a year, and they react to humidity, settling and loose hardware. The result is a familiar set of problems: squeaky hinges, doors that rub on the frame, doors that won’t latch, and gaps that let light and drafts through.
Almost all of these are easy fixes with a screwdriver, a few long screws and some patience. This guide walks you through diagnosing the problem and fixing it.
Diagnose the Problem First
Open and close the door slowly and watch closely.
- Squeaks come from hinges, usually the hinge pins.
- Rubbing at the top latch-side corner usually means the door is sagging because the top hinge is loose.
- Rubbing along the whole latch edge may be swelling from humidity or paint buildup.
- Not latching often means the latch and strike plate are misaligned.
- Rubbing at the bottom could be sagging, a raised threshold, new flooring or a rug.
A useful trick: rub chalk or lipstick along the door edge, close it, and see where the marks transfer to the frame. That’s where it’s rubbing.
Fix 1: Silence a Squeaky Hinge
- Close the door so it’s supported.
- Tap the hinge pin upward with a nail set or screwdriver and hammer, and pull it out. Do one hinge at a time so the door stays in place.
- Clean the pin with steel wool or a rag to remove rust and old gunk.
- Apply a light lubricant. Options include white lithium grease, silicone spray, or a dab of petroleum jelly. Avoid heavy oils that attract dust and drip.
- Reinsert the pin, swing the door a few times, and wipe off excess.
General-purpose spray lubricants can quiet a hinge for a while, but many people find a grease or dedicated hinge lubricant lasts longer.
Fix 2: Tighten Loose Hinge Screws
Loose hinges are behind many sticking and sagging doors.
- Tighten every hinge screw on both the door and the frame.
- If a screw spins without tightening, the hole is stripped.
Repair a stripped screw hole
- Quick fix: Remove the screw, push a few wooden toothpicks or a golf tee coated in wood glue into the hole, let dry, trim flush, and re-drive the screw.
- Better fix for the top hinge: Replace one of the screws in the top hinge’s frame side with a 3-inch screw that reaches the wall framing (the stud behind the jamb). This pulls the door up and back toward the frame and often cures sagging immediately. Many hardware stores sell long screws with heads that match standard hinge finishes.
Drive the long screw carefully so you don’t pull the jamb out of alignment; tighten gradually and check the gap.
Fix 3: Fix a Door That Won’t Latch
If the latch hits above or below the strike plate hole:
- Look for scrape marks on the strike plate to see where the latch is hitting.
- If it’s slightly off, tightening the hinges (Fix 2) may realign it.
- If not, enlarge the strike plate opening slightly with a metal file.
- For bigger misalignment, unscrew the strike plate, extend the mortise in the jamb with a chisel, and move the plate up or down. Fill the old screw holes with glue and toothpicks.
If the door closes but rattles, bend the small tab on the strike plate slightly toward the doorstop with pliers so the latch fits snugly. Some strike plates have adjustable tabs.
Fix 4: Fix a Door That Rubs or Sticks
Humidity swelling
Wooden doors swell in humid months. If sticking is seasonal and mild, tightening hinges may be enough. If you need to remove material:
- Mark the rubbing area with a pencil while the door is closed.
- Take the door off its hinges (tap the pins out from the bottom up) and lay it across sawhorses.
- Sand or plane the marked area lightly, removing only a little at a time. A hand plane or a power planer works for larger amounts.
- Seal the bare wood with primer and paint or a clear finish, including the top and bottom edges. Unsealed wood absorbs moisture and will swell again.
Paint buildup
Years of paint on the door edge and the jamb can make a door bind. Scrape or sand the excess paint off, then repaint with a thin coat.
Shim a hinge
If the door rubs on the latch side, a thin cardboard shim behind a hinge leaf (on the jamb side) can push the door slightly toward the latch side or change its angle. This takes some trial and error, but it’s a classic carpenter’s trick.
Fix 5: Door Rubs on the Floor
- If new flooring or a thick rug is the problem, the door may need to be trimmed at the bottom. Mark it, remove the door, score the cut line with a utility knife to prevent splintering, and cut with a circular saw guided by a straight edge.
- Hollow-core doors have only a small solid block at the bottom. If you cut off more than a little, you may need to reinstall the block.
- Seal the cut edge.
Fix 6: Drafty Exterior Doors
- Replace worn weatherstripping around the frame. Many exterior doors use kerf-in weatherstripping that presses into a slot.
- Install or replace the door sweep at the bottom.
- Adjust the threshold if yours has adjustment screws.
Check the gap by closing the door on a sheet of paper: if it slides out easily, the seal is weak at that spot.
Tools You’ll Need
- Screwdrivers (or a drill/driver with care)
- Hammer and nail set
- Lubricant (white lithium grease or silicone spray)
- Wood glue and toothpicks or golf tees
- 3-inch screws for the top hinge
- Metal file and wood chisel
- Sandpaper, a sanding block, or a hand plane
- Primer and paint
- Weatherstripping and door sweep (for exterior doors)
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my door only stick in summer?
Wood absorbs moisture in humid weather and swells. Sealing all edges of the door, including the top and bottom, and running a dehumidifier can reduce seasonal sticking.
Can I fix a sagging door without removing it?
Often yes. Tightening the hinges and adding a long screw to the top hinge is done with the door in place.
Should I use WD-40 on door hinges?
It can quiet hinges temporarily, but it’s not primarily a long-lasting lubricant. A white lithium grease or silicone-based product generally lasts longer on hinges.
When should I replace a door instead of fixing it?
If the door is cracked, warped badly, rotted, or delaminating (common on old hollow-core doors), replacement may be the better choice. Pre-hung doors include a new frame and are easier to install than slab doors for many DIYers.
What if the frame itself is out of square?
Significant gaps that change over time, cracks in the drywall above the door, or doors throughout the house sticking may point to settling or structural movement. It’s worth having a professional take a look.
The Bottom Line
Most door problems come from loose hinges, misaligned strike plates, or swelling. Tighten everything, add a long screw to the top hinge, adjust the strike plate, and only remove wood as a last resort, sealing any bare edges afterward.
Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.