Category: Plumbing

A dripping faucet seems minor, but a steady drip adds up over weeks and months on your water bill, and the constant sound can drive you a little crazy. More importantly, drips usually get worse, not better, and mineral-rich water can stain the sink beneath.

Fixing a leaky faucet is a classic DIY repair. The key is figuring out which of the four common faucet types you have, because each one seals water in a different way. Once you know the type, the fix is usually replacing an inexpensive washer, O-ring, seal or cartridge.

Before You Start

Turn off the water

Look under the sink for two shutoff valves (hot and cold) and turn them clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is off. If there are no shutoff valves, or they won’t close, you’ll need to shut off the home’s main water valve.

Protect the drain and finish

Put a stopper in the drain or lay a rag in the sink so small screws and springs don’t disappear. Wrap wrench jaws with tape or use a cloth to protect chrome and other finishes.

Take photos as you go

Snap a picture at each stage of disassembly. It makes reassembly much easier.

Tools and supplies

• Adjustable wrench and slip-joint pliers
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers
• Hex (Allen) key set
• Utility knife or small pick for removing decorative caps
• Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, cartridge, or seals)
• Plumber’s grease (silicone, safe for faucets)
• White vinegar and an old toothbrush for mineral buildup
• Rags and a flashlight

Identify Your Faucet Type

Compression faucet

Separate hot and cold handles that you twist to close, and you feel them tighten down. Common in older homes and utility sinks. Drips usually come from worn rubber washers.

Cartridge faucet

Can be one or two handles. A single handle typically moves up and down for flow and side to side for temperature. A cartridge inside controls water. Drips often mean a worn cartridge or O-rings.

Ball faucet

A single handle over a rounded cap, common in kitchens. Inside is a hollow ball with rubber seats and springs. Leaks usually come from worn seats and springs.

Ceramic disc faucet

Single handle over a wide cylinder body. Two ceramic discs control flow. They’re very durable; leaks often come from worn seals at the bottom of the disc cartridge.

If you know the faucet’s brand (Moen, Delta, Kohler, American Standard, Pfister and others), check the manufacturer’s site for parts diagrams by model. Many faucet makers offer lifetime warranties on parts, so it may be worth contacting them before buying replacements.

How to Fix a Compression Faucet

1. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the screw, and pull off the handle.
2. Use a wrench to unscrew the packing nut and remove the stem.
3. At the bottom of the stem, a rubber washer is held by a brass screw. Remove the screw and washer.
4. Install a new washer of the exact same size. Replace the O-ring on the stem too.
5. Look into the faucet body at the valve seat. If it’s pitted, a seat wrench can remove it for replacement, or a seat dressing tool can smooth it.
6. Coat new parts lightly with plumber’s grease and reassemble.

Washer assortment packs are cheap and handy, but take the old washer to the store to match it.

How to Fix a Cartridge Faucet

1. Remove the handle (look for a screw under a cap or a small set screw for a hex key).
2. Remove any retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge. Note the cartridge’s orientation; it matters for hot and cold.
3. Pull the cartridge straight up. Stuck cartridges may need a cartridge puller tool made for your brand.
4. Take the old cartridge to the store or order the exact replacement by brand and model.
5. Replace O-rings on the faucet body if your design has them, lubricate with plumber’s grease, and install the new cartridge in the same orientation.
6. Reinstall the clip and handle.

How to Fix a Ball Faucet

1. Loosen the set screw and remove the handle.
2. Unscrew the cap and collar with pliers wrapped in tape.
3. Remove the cam, cam washer and ball.
4. Use a small screwdriver to lift out the rubber seats and springs from the faucet body.
5. Install new seats and springs from a repair kit made for your faucet, then replace the O-rings on the body if the spout also leaks at its base.
6. Reassemble in order.

How to Fix a Ceramic Disc Faucet

1. Remove the handle and the escutcheon cap.
2. Unscrew the disc cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder.
3. Remove the neoprene seals from the bottom of the cylinder.
4. Soak the cylinder openings in white vinegar if you see mineral buildup, then clean gently.
5. Install new seals (or a new cartridge if the discs are cracked), and reassemble.
6. Turn the water on slowly with the faucet open. A sudden blast of pressure can crack ceramic discs.

Leak at the Base or Under the Sink?

If water pools around the base of the spout, the O-rings on the spout or body are usually the problem. If you find water under the sink, check the supply lines and their connections, the shutoff valves themselves, and the drain connections. Braided stainless supply lines are inexpensive to replace if old ones look corroded or bulged.

Reassemble and Test

Turn the shutoff valves on slowly, and let the faucet run for a minute to flush air and debris. Check for drips at the spout and leaks around the handle and base. If the faucet sputters, unscrew and clean the aerator at the tip of the spout.

When to Replace the Faucet Instead

Repairing is usually cheaper, but replacement can make sense when:

• The faucet body is cracked or badly corroded
• Parts are no longer available for an older or off-brand model
• You’ve repaired it repeatedly
• You want features like a pull-down sprayer or a better finish

Most faucet replacements are DIY-friendly with a basin wrench for the mounting nuts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my faucet still drip after replacing the washer?

The valve seat may be worn or pitted, so the new washer can’t seal. Dress or replace the seat. In a cartridge faucet, the wrong cartridge or a missed O-ring can also cause continued drips.

Do I need to know the faucet brand?

It helps a lot. Cartridges especially are brand- and model-specific. Look for a logo on the handle or body, or take the old part to the store.

Is plumber’s grease necessary?

It’s recommended for O-rings and cartridges. It helps parts slide in without tearing and makes handles move smoothly. Use a faucet-safe silicone grease, not petroleum jelly.

How long does a faucet repair take?

Often under an hour once you have the right part. Finding the part is usually the longest step.

The Bottom Line

Identify your faucet type, shut off the water, take photos, and replace the worn part with an exact match. A washer, O-ring, seal kit or cartridge fixes the vast majority of dripping faucets, and it costs far less than a new faucet or a service call.

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Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

A slow sink or a shower that leaves you standing in water is a daily annoyance, and the instinct is to grab a bottle of chemical drain opener. But caustic drain cleaners can be harsh on older pipes, dangerous if they splash, and a hazard if you end up needing to plunge or snake the drain afterward with chemicals sitting in it.

Most household clogs can be cleared with simple mechanical tools that cost little and last for years. This guide covers the methods, in the order you should try them.

Know Your Clog

The location tells you a lot about the cause:

• Bathroom sinks: Hair, soap scum and toothpaste, usually collecting at the stopper or in the P-trap.
• Showers and tubs: Hair and soap, often right below the drain cover.
• Kitchen sinks: Grease, food scraps and coffee grounds, sometimes deeper in the line.
• Multiple fixtures at once: If several drains are slow, or a toilet gurgles when the sink drains, the problem may be in the main line or vent. That’s usually a job for a plumber.

Method 1: Clean the Stopper and Drain Cover

Start with the easy step. In a bathroom sink, the pop-up stopper often collects a mat of hair.

1. Look under the sink at the back of the drainpipe for a horizontal rod held by a nut.
2. Unscrew the nut and pull the rod out a bit; the stopper will lift free from above.
3. Clean the hair and gunk off the stopper, then reassemble.

For shower drains, unscrew or pry off the drain cover and pull out what you can reach with gloved fingers or needle-nose pliers.

Method 2: Use a Plastic Drain-Cleaning Strip

These cheap barbed plastic strips (sold under names like Zip-It) are made for hair clogs. Push the strip down the drain, wiggle it, and pull it out slowly. It’s unpleasant, but it’s often the fastest fix for a bathroom sink or shower.

Method 3: Plunge It Properly

Use a cup plunger (flat bottom) for sinks and tubs. Save the flange plunger for toilets.

1. Remove the stopper.
2. Block the overflow opening with a wet rag. In a double kitchen sink, plug the other drain. Otherwise you’re just pushing air out the other opening.
3. Make sure there’s enough water to cover the plunger cup.
4. Position the plunger to form a seal, and plunge with firm, quick strokes for 15 to 20 seconds.
5. Pull up sharply and check whether the water drains.

Repeat a few times before moving on.

Method 4: Try Hot Water (Carefully)

For kitchen sinks with mild grease buildup, a kettle of hot (not boiling) water poured slowly can help soften grease. Avoid pouring boiling water into PVC pipes or porcelain sinks repeatedly, and never do it after chemical cleaners have been used.

The popular baking soda and vinegar trick produces satisfying fizzing, but it’s a mild approach. It may help with light buildup or odors; it rarely clears a real hair or grease clog on its own.

Method 5: Clean the P-Trap

The U-shaped pipe under the sink traps water to block sewer gas, and it also traps debris.

1. Put a bucket under the trap and lay down a towel.
2. Loosen the slip nuts on both ends by hand or with tongue-and-groove pliers.
3. Remove the trap, dump it, and clean it out with a brush.
4. Check the pipe going into the wall for buildup you can reach.
5. Reinstall, hand-tighten the nuts plus a small turn, and run water to check for leaks.

This step solves a lot of kitchen and bathroom sink clogs.

Method 6: Use a Drain Snake (Auger)

If the clog is past the trap, use a hand-crank drain snake. A 15- to 25-foot snake is fine for most sink and tub drains.

1. With the trap removed (often easier), feed the cable into the drain pipe in the wall.
2. When you feel resistance, tighten the lock and crank the handle to bore into or grab the clog.
3. Push and pull gently, then withdraw the cable and clean it.
4. Reassemble and flush with plenty of hot tap water.

Drill-powered augers are also available for larger jobs. Wear gloves and eye protection, and don’t force the cable, which can kink.

Method 7: Wet/Dry Vacuum

A shop vacuum set to liquid mode can sometimes pull a clog back out of a drain, especially in a tub or shower. Make a tight seal around the drain and block the overflow.

Enzyme Cleaners for Maintenance

Enzyme- or bacteria-based drain cleaners digest organic material slowly over time. They aren’t instant clog busters, but used regularly according to the label, they can help keep drains clear and reduce odors. They’re generally gentler on pipes and septic systems than caustic products.

Prevention: Keep Drains Clear

• Use hair catchers on shower and tub drains.
• Wipe greasy pans with a paper towel before washing; never pour cooking grease down the sink.
• Keep coffee grounds, eggshells, pasta, rice and fibrous scraps out of the disposal and sink.
• Run plenty of water when using a garbage disposal.
• Clean bathroom sink stoppers every few months.

When to Call a Plumber

• Several drains are slow at the same time
• Sewage odors or water backing up into a tub or floor drain
• Gurgling toilets when other fixtures drain
• A clog that returns quickly after you’ve cleared it
• Old or fragile pipes you’re not comfortable disassembling

These can point to main-line clogs, tree roots or venting problems that need professional equipment like camera inspections.

A Quick Troubleshooting Order

When a drain is slow, run through this order before calling for help:

1. Remove and clean the stopper or drain cover.
2. Use a plastic drain strip for hair.
3. Plunge with the overflow blocked.
4. Remove and clean the P-trap.
5. Snake the line beyond the trap.
6. Call a plumber if the clog persists or several drains are affected.

Working in this order solves most clogs with the least mess.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are chemical drain cleaners bad for pipes?

Caustic products can be harsh, especially on older metal pipes, and they’re dangerous if they splash back. Many plumbers suggest mechanical methods first. If you’ve already used a chemical cleaner, tell the plumber and avoid plunging, which can splash it.

What’s the best tool for a hair clog?

A plastic drain-cleaning strip or a small hand auger. Removing the stopper or drain cover first often makes the clog easy to reach.

Why does my drain smell even when it isn’t clogged?

Buildup on the stopper or in the trap, a dried-out trap in a rarely used drain, or a disposal with food residue. Clean the stopper and trap, and run water in unused drains to refill the trap.

Can I use a plunger on a garbage disposal sink?

Yes, but plug the other side of a double sink. If the disposal itself is jammed, use the hex key on its underside after turning off its power.

The Bottom Line

Start simple: clean the stopper, use a drain strip, plunge correctly, and clean the P-trap. A hand auger handles most of what’s left. Add hair catchers and better kitchen habits, and you’ll rarely need a chemical cleaner again.

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Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

A toilet that keeps running after a flush is one of the most common household plumbing problems, and one of the easiest to fix yourself. The sound is annoying, but the bigger issue is the water: a toilet that runs constantly can send a surprising amount down the drain every day, and you pay for every gallon.

The good news is that almost every running toilet comes down to a handful of parts inside the tank. None of them require special skills, and most replacement parts are inexpensive and sold at any hardware store. This guide walks you through diagnosing the problem, fixing it, and knowing when it is time to call a plumber.

How a Toilet Tank Works (in 60 Seconds)

Lift the tank lid and you will see the whole system. Understanding it makes the fix obvious.

• Flush handle and chain: When you press the handle, a lever arm lifts a chain attached to the flapper.
• Flapper: A rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. When it lifts, water rushes from the tank into the bowl. When it drops back down, it seals the tank so it can refill.
• Fill valve: The tall assembly, usually on the left side, that lets fresh water into the tank after a flush.
• Float: Either a ball on an arm (older toilets) or a cup that slides up and down the fill valve (most newer toilets). As the water rises, the float rises and shuts the fill valve off.
• Overflow tube: The open pipe in the center of the tank. If the water level gets too high, it spills into this tube and down to the bowl so the tank never overflows onto the floor.

A toilet “runs” when water keeps leaving the tank (usually a flapper problem) or keeps entering it (usually a fill valve or float problem).

Step 1: Find Out Where the Water Is Going

Before buying parts, spend five minutes diagnosing.

Check the water level

Look at the overflow tube. If water is spilling into the top of it, the tank is overfilling and the fill valve isn’t shutting off. That points to the float or fill valve.

If the water is well below the top of the overflow tube but you still hear running or the tank refills on its own every so often (sometimes called “phantom flushing”), water is leaking past the flapper.

Try the food coloring test

Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank and don’t flush for 20 to 30 minutes. If color appears in the bowl, the flapper or flush valve seat is leaking. This test is also a good habit once or twice a year, because slow leaks can be silent.

Step 2: Fix Flapper Problems

The flapper is the most common culprit. Rubber hardens, warps and collects mineral deposits over time, so it stops sealing properly.

Adjust the chain first

A chain that is too short holds the flapper slightly open. A chain that is too long can get trapped under the flapper. You want a little slack, roughly half an inch, when the flapper is closed. Move the clip to a different link and test a few flushes.

Clean the flush valve seat

Turn off the water supply valve behind the toilet (turn it clockwise), flush to drain the tank, and hold a towel ready. Wipe the rim the flapper sits on with a non-scratch scrub pad. Mineral buildup or grit on this rim is enough to break the seal.

Replace the flapper

If the flapper feels stiff, slimy, cracked or misshapen, replace it. Take the old one with you to the store or check the toilet’s brand and model (often stamped inside the tank behind the water line). Most toilets use either a 2-inch or 3-inch flush valve, and the flapper must match. Universal flappers from brands such as Korky and Fluidmaster fit many toilets, and some have adjustable settings to control how long they stay open.

To replace it:

1. Shut off the water and flush to empty the tank.
2. Unhook the chain from the handle lever.
3. Slide the flapper ears off the pegs on the overflow tube (or remove the ring if your flapper uses one).
4. Install the new flapper, attach the chain with a little slack, and turn the water back on.
5. Flush several times and repeat the food coloring test.

Step 3: Fix Fill Valve and Float Problems

If water is running into the overflow tube, adjust the float so the tank stops filling sooner.

Adjust a float cup

On most modern fill valves, there is a long adjustment screw or a clip on a metal rod beside the float cup. Turn the screw or slide the clip to lower the float. The water level should end up about an inch below the top of the overflow tube, or at the water line marked inside the tank.

Adjust a float ball

On older toilets with a float ball on an arm, there is usually a screw on top of the fill valve where the arm connects. Turning it lowers the arm. On very old toilets, you might gently bend a brass arm downward, but if it’s that old, replacing the whole fill valve is usually the better move.

Check the refill tube

The small flexible tube from the fill valve should clip to the overflow tube and point into it, not be pushed down deep inside it. If the refill tube sits below the water line, it can siphon water continuously. Clip it so its end stays above the water.

Replace the fill valve

If the valve hisses, fills slowly, or won’t shut off even after adjustment, replace it. A universal fill valve kit, such as the Fluidmaster 400 series, fits most toilets and comes with instructions. The basic process:

1. Turn off the water and flush. Sponge out the remaining water.
2. Put a small bucket under the tank and disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the tank.
3. Unscrew the large locknut under the tank and lift out the old valve.
4. Set the new valve’s height according to the instructions, insert it, and hand-tighten the locknut plus a small extra turn with pliers. Don’t overtighten; porcelain cracks.
5. Reconnect the supply line, attach the refill tube, turn the water on, and set the water level.

Step 4: Check the Handle

A sticky handle can hold the flapper open. If the handle doesn’t spring back, tighten the nut inside the tank (it’s often reverse-threaded) or replace the handle. Handles are cheap and take a few minutes to swap.

When the Flush Valve Itself Is the Problem

If you’ve replaced the flapper and cleaned the seat, but the food coloring test still fails, the flush valve seat may be cracked or badly pitted. Repair kits exist that glue a new seat ring over the old one. A full flush valve replacement means removing the tank from the bowl, which is still a DIY job but a bigger one. At that point, some people choose to replace the whole toilet, especially if it’s an older, high-water-use model.

Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

• Replacement flapper (matched to your flush valve size)
• Universal fill valve kit, if needed
• Adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers
• Sponge and small bucket
• Old towels
• Non-scratch scrub pad
• Food coloring
• Rubber gloves

When to Call a Plumber

Call a pro if the shutoff valve behind the toilet won’t turn or leaks when you touch it, if you see water on the floor around the base, if the tank or bowl is cracked, or if you’re not comfortable disconnecting the supply line. A stuck or corroded shutoff valve can fail when forced, and that’s a much bigger problem than a running toilet.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my toilet run for a few seconds every so often?

That’s usually a slow flapper leak. Water seeps into the bowl until the level drops enough to trigger the fill valve. Clean the seat or replace the flapper.

Can I just jiggle the handle?

Jiggling can reseat a flapper temporarily, but it won’t fix a worn part or a badly adjusted chain. If you have to jiggle it regularly, make the repair.

How long does a toilet flapper last?

It depends on water chemistry and cleaning products. In-tank cleaning tablets can speed up rubber deterioration, so some manufacturers recommend avoiding them. Check the flapper whenever you notice running or phantom flushing.

Do I need to turn off the water to adjust the float?

Not usually. You can adjust most floats with the water on and watch the result. Turn the water off for any part replacement.

Is a universal flapper as good as the brand-specific one?

Often yes, but some toilets, especially newer low-flow and dual-flush models, use proprietary parts. If a universal flapper doesn’t seal, buy the part made for your toilet’s model number.

The Bottom Line

Most running toilets are fixed with a chain adjustment, a new flapper, or a float adjustment, all of which take less than an hour. Start with the diagnosis, change one thing at a time, and test after each step. You’ll stop the noise, save water, and gain confidence for the next repair.

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Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.