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  • How to Patch Drywall in 5 Steps

    How to Patch Drywall in 5 Steps

    Holes in drywall happen. A doorknob slams into the wall, a picture comes down, a TV mount moves, or an old anchor rips out. The repair looks intimidating, but patching drywall is one of the most learnable DIY skills there is. It mostly takes patience, a couple of inexpensive tools, and a willingness to sand.

    This guide covers small, medium and large holes using the same five basic steps: prepare, back, fill, sand and finish.

    First, Size Up the Damage

    The method depends on the size of the hole.

    • Nail holes and small dings (under 1/2 inch): Lightweight spackle and a putty knife.
    • Small holes (1/2 inch to about 4 inches): A self-adhesive mesh patch or a “California patch,” plus joint compound.
    • Large holes (bigger than about 4 to 6 inches): Cut out a square, add wood backing, and screw in a new piece of drywall.

    Also check what caused the hole. Water stains or soft, crumbly drywall suggest a leak that needs fixing first. Patching over wet drywall just buys you a second repair.

    Tools and Materials

    • Utility knife with fresh blades
    • 4-inch and 6-inch (or 10-inch) drywall knives
    • Lightweight spackle for small holes
    • All-purpose or lightweight premixed joint compound
    • Setting-type compound (“hot mud,” such as a 20- or 45-minute powder) for faster, harder first coats on bigger repairs (optional)
    • Self-adhesive fiberglass mesh patches or mesh tape
    • Scrap drywall matching your wall thickness (usually 1/2 inch) for large holes
    • Furring strips or scrap 1×3 wood and drywall screws
    • Drywall saw (jab saw)
    • Sanding sponge or 120- to 220-grit sanding paper, or a pole sander
    • Primer and paint
    • Drop cloth and a dust mask

    Step 1: Prepare the Hole

    Cut away torn paper and loose gypsum with a utility knife. Ragged paper edges bubble under compound, so trim them cleanly. For dents and doorknob dings, lightly crush any raised edges below the surface so your knife can glide over them.

    For a large hole, draw a square or rectangle around the damage and cut along the lines with a drywall saw. Square holes are much easier to patch than irregular ones. Before cutting, make sure there are no wires or pipes behind the wall. Turn off power to nearby circuits if you’re unsure, and cut shallow.

    Step 2: Add Backing or a Patch

    Small holes: mesh patch

    Peel and stick a self-adhesive mesh patch over the hole, centered, with at least an inch of overlap on solid drywall all around. These patches are thin and work well for holes up to a few inches.

    Medium holes: California patch

    A California patch (also called a butterfly patch) uses a piece of drywall with its own paper flaps.

    1. Cut a piece of scrap drywall about 2 inches larger in each direction than the hole.
    2. On the back, score a square the size of your hole, snap the gypsum, and peel it away from the front paper, leaving a paper “flange” around a gypsum plug.
    3. Trace the plug on the wall, cut the wall opening to match, and test fit.
    4. Butter the back of the paper flange with joint compound, press the plug into place, and smooth the paper flat with your knife.

    Large holes: backing strips and new drywall

    1. Cut two wood strips several inches longer than the hole’s height.
    2. Slide them inside the hole, one on each side, and screw them through the existing drywall (two screws per strip, top and bottom). Hold them firmly while you drive the screws.
    3. Cut a drywall piece to fit the opening, leaving about 1/8-inch gap around the edges.
    4. Screw the patch to the strips, sinking the screw heads just below the surface without tearing the paper.
    5. Cover the seams with mesh tape.

    Step 3: Fill With Compound

    This is where good results are made.

    1. Load a 6-inch knife with compound and spread a thin coat over the patch and seams, feathering outward several inches beyond the edges.
    2. Hold the knife at a low angle and use firm pressure to leave a thin layer. Thin coats dry faster and crack less.
    3. Let it dry completely. Premixed compound can take several hours to overnight depending on thickness and humidity. Setting compound hardens in roughly the time printed on the bag.
    4. Apply a second coat with a wider knife, feathering even farther out. The wider you feather, the less visible the patch.
    5. A third thin skim coat is often needed for large patches.

    For nail holes, one or two dabs of spackle is usually all you need. Overfill slightly because it shrinks a little as it dries.

    Step 4: Sand Smooth

    Once the final coat is dry, sand lightly with a fine sanding sponge, using light circular strokes. Don’t sand through to the mesh or tape. Shine a flashlight across the wall at a low angle: shadows reveal ridges and dips you can’t see head-on. Fill any low spots with another thin coat and sand again.

    To keep dust under control, use a damp sanding sponge for small patches, lay down a drop cloth, and wear a dust mask. Joint compound dust is fine and gets everywhere.

    Step 5: Prime and Paint

    Compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall. If you paint directly over it, you’ll often see a dull spot called “flashing.” Prime the patch with a drywall primer or a quality primer-sealer first, then paint.

    If you don’t have the original paint, take a chip to a paint store for matching, or plan to repaint the whole wall from corner to corner. Even the same paint can look different on a patch because the wall’s original paint has aged. Painting the entire wall is the reliable way to make a repair disappear.

    Match the sheen, too. Flat and matte hide repairs best; eggshell and satin show more.

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    • Piling on thick coats. Thick compound cracks, shrinks and takes forever to dry.
    • Not feathering far enough. A patch that stops abruptly leaves a visible hump.
    • Skipping primer. Unprimed patches flash through paint.
    • Patching over the cause. Fix leaks, loose anchors or doorknob strikes first. A wall-mounted door stop prevents repeat damage.
    • Rushing dry time. Sanding damp compound tears it and makes a mess.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What’s the difference between spackle and joint compound?

    Spackle is designed for small fills and dries fast with little shrinkage. Joint compound is for taping seams and larger repairs, spreads more easily over wide areas and sands smoothly. Use spackle for nail holes and compound for patches.

    How long does it take to patch drywall?

    The hands-on work for a small patch is under an hour, but drying between coats spreads a typical repair over a day or two. Setting-type compound speeds this up.

    Can I patch drywall without a mesh patch?

    For holes larger than a nail hole, you need something to bridge the gap: mesh, a California patch, or a new drywall piece. Compound alone will sag or crack over an open hole.

    How do I fix a crack that keeps coming back?

    Cracks that reappear, especially at corners of doors and windows, often come from building movement. Cut a shallow V along the crack, apply mesh tape, and use multiple feathered coats. Consistently reopening cracks or large diagonal cracks are worth having a professional look at.

    Can I texture over a patch?

    Yes. Spray-can texture products are available for orange peel and knockdown finishes. Practice on cardboard first to match the pattern.

    The Bottom Line

    Drywall repair follows the same pattern whatever the hole size: clean up the damage, give the compound something solid to sit on, apply thin feathered coats, sand lightly, then prime and paint. Take your time with the coats and the sanding, and your patch can be nearly invisible.

    Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

  • Best Cordless Drill Kits for Homeowners: A Practical Buying Guide

    Best Cordless Drill Kits for Homeowners: A Practical Buying Guide

    A cordless drill is the first power tool most homeowners buy, and for good reason. It hangs pictures, assembles furniture, installs shelves, drives deck screws, and mixes small batches of thinset with the right attachment. But walk into any hardware store and you’ll face a wall of nearly identical yellow, red, teal and green boxes with confusing labels.

    This guide explains what actually matters when choosing a drill kit for home use, which features are worth paying for, and which well-known kits are worth a look. We base it on manufacturer specifications and the general strengths of each platform, not on hands-on lab testing, so use it to narrow your choices and then handle a few drills in a store if you can.

    Drill vs. Drill/Driver vs. Impact Driver vs. Hammer Drill

    These names get mixed up constantly.

    • Drill/driver: The standard cordless drill. It drills holes and drives screws, with an adjustable clutch so you don’t strip screw heads. This is what most homeowners need.
    • Hammer drill: A drill/driver with an extra hammering mode for drilling into brick, block and concrete. It’s slightly heavier. Worth it if you live in a masonry house or plan to mount things on brick or concrete.
    • Impact driver: A different tool. It drives long screws and lag bolts with rotational impacts and uses quarter-inch hex bits. It’s not ideal for drilling precise holes, but it’s excellent for decks, framing and heavy fastening.
    • Combo kit: A drill and an impact driver sold together, usually with two batteries and a charger. For many homeowners, this is the best value.

    What to Look For

    Voltage and platform

    Most full-size cordless drills are 18V or 20V Max. Those two numbers describe essentially the same battery class; the difference is how brands measure it. 12V drills are smaller and lighter and handle most household tasks, like furniture assembly and picture hanging, but they can struggle with large holes or long screws.

    More important than the voltage is the battery platform. Once you own batteries for one brand, every other tool from that brand becomes cheaper to add. Pick a platform with the tools you might want later: a circular saw, oscillating multi-tool, string trimmer or leaf blower.

    Brushless vs. brushed motor

    Brushless motors run cooler, are more efficient (more work per battery charge), and generally last longer. Brushed drills cost less and are fine for occasional use. If your budget allows, brushless is the better long-term buy.

    Battery size (Ah)

    Amp-hours measure capacity. A 2.0Ah battery is lighter and fine for light work. A 4.0Ah or 5.0Ah battery runs longer but adds weight. Kits with two batteries are worth the extra cost so one can charge while you work.

    Chuck size

    A half-inch chuck accepts larger bits and is standard on full-size drills. A 3/8-inch chuck is common on compact and 12V drills. For a homeowner, either works, but a 1/2-inch chuck is more versatile.

    Clutch and speed settings

    A good clutch with plenty of settings lets you drive small screws into soft materials without stripping. Two speed ranges (low for driving, high for drilling) are standard on decent drills.

    Weight and balance

    You’ll often drill overhead or at arm’s length. A lighter, compact drill is less tiring. Check the weight with the battery installed, which is how you’ll actually use it.

    LED light and belt clip

    Small features, but a well-placed work light and a belt clip make everyday jobs easier.

    Cordless Drill Kits Worth Considering

    Below are well-regarded options across budgets. Model numbers and kit contents change frequently, so confirm the specific kit details before you buy.

    DeWalt 20V Max drill/driver kits

    DeWalt’s 20V Max platform is one of the most widely available in North America, with a huge range of compatible tools. Their compact brushless drill/driver kits are popular with homeowners who want pro-grade durability without bulk. A good pick if you expect to add many tools over time.

    Milwaukee M18 and M12

    Milwaukee’s M18 line is aimed at professionals and is known for strong performance. Their M12 line is a standout 12V system, with compact drills and a large lineup of small specialty tools. If you mostly do light-to-moderate home tasks, an M12 drill and impact driver combo can be all you need.

    Makita 18V LXT

    Makita drills are known for being well-balanced and comfortable, and the LXT battery platform is extensive. A strong choice if ergonomics matter most to you.

    Ryobi ONE+ 18V

    Ryobi’s ONE+ platform is a budget favorite for homeowners. Its biggest strength is breadth: hundreds of compatible tools, including many lawn, garden and specialty tools, at prices that suit occasional users. The brushless “HP” models offer a step up in performance.

    Bosch 12V and 18V

    Bosch makes compact, well-built drills, and its 12V tools in particular are favored for tight spaces and cabinetry work.

    Black+Decker and Craftsman

    For very light use, entry-level kits from Black+Decker can handle furniture assembly and picture hanging. Craftsman’s V20 line sits between budget and pro and is widely available.

    How to Choose: Three Common Homeowner Profiles

    The occasional fixer

    You assemble furniture, hang shelves, and do a few small projects a year. A 12V compact drill kit, or an entry 18V/20V brushed kit, will serve you well.

    The regular DIYer

    You tackle a project every month or two: installing fixtures, building simple shelving, small deck repairs. Get a brushless 18V/20V drill and impact driver combo kit with two batteries.

    The future renovator

    You plan bigger projects such as decks, framing, or tiling. Invest in a brand platform with the tools you’ll need next, and consider a hammer drill and higher-capacity batteries.

    Accessories Worth Buying With Your Drill

    • A quality drill bit set with brad-point or titanium-coated twist bits
    • A screwdriver bit set with Phillips, square (Robertson), Torx and slotted bits
    • A magnetic bit holder
    • Masonry bits if you’ll drill into brick or concrete
    • Spade bits or a hole saw kit for larger holes
    • Safety glasses

    Safety Tips

    • Wear safety glasses whenever you drill.
    • Before drilling into walls, check for wires and pipes with a stud finder that detects AC wiring, and avoid areas directly above and below outlets and switches.
    • Clamp small workpieces instead of holding them by hand.
    • Remove the battery when changing bits.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is 12V powerful enough for a homeowner?

    For most household tasks, yes. A quality 12V drill handles furniture, shelves, cabinet hardware and small holes. Choose 18V/20V if you’ll drive long screws or drill large holes often.

    Do I need an impact driver too?

    Not necessarily, but if you’ll build a deck, a fence, or anything with lots of long screws, an impact driver saves time and effort. That’s why combo kits are popular.

    Can I use one brand’s batteries in another brand’s tool?

    Not directly. Third-party adapters exist, but manufacturers don’t support them and they may affect warranty or safety. It’s simpler to stick with one platform.

    How long do lithium-ion batteries last?

    It varies with use and care. Store them in a cool, dry place, avoid leaving them in a hot car or freezing garage, and don’t store them fully drained for long periods.

    Is a hammer drill worth the extra cost?

    Only if you’ll drill into masonry. For occasional concrete work, a hammer drill handles small holes. For frequent or large concrete holes, a dedicated rotary hammer is the better tool.

    The Bottom Line

    For most homeowners, the best cordless drill kit is a brushless 18V/20V drill/driver, ideally in a combo with an impact driver and two batteries, from a brand whose platform includes the other tools you’ll want. If you’re mostly assembling and hanging things, a 12V kit is lighter, cheaper and perfectly capable.

    Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.

  • How to Fix a Running Toilet: A Step-by-Step Guide

    How to Fix a Running Toilet: A Step-by-Step Guide

    A toilet that keeps running after a flush is one of the most common household plumbing problems, and one of the easiest to fix yourself. The sound is annoying, but the bigger issue is the water: a toilet that runs constantly can send a surprising amount down the drain every day, and you pay for every gallon.

    The good news is that almost every running toilet comes down to a handful of parts inside the tank. None of them require special skills, and most replacement parts are inexpensive and sold at any hardware store. This guide walks you through diagnosing the problem, fixing it, and knowing when it is time to call a plumber.

    How a Toilet Tank Works (in 60 Seconds)

    Lift the tank lid and you will see the whole system. Understanding it makes the fix obvious.

    • Flush handle and chain: When you press the handle, a lever arm lifts a chain attached to the flapper.
    • Flapper: A rubber seal at the bottom of the tank. When it lifts, water rushes from the tank into the bowl. When it drops back down, it seals the tank so it can refill.
    • Fill valve: The tall assembly, usually on the left side, that lets fresh water into the tank after a flush.
    • Float: Either a ball on an arm (older toilets) or a cup that slides up and down the fill valve (most newer toilets). As the water rises, the float rises and shuts the fill valve off.
    • Overflow tube: The open pipe in the center of the tank. If the water level gets too high, it spills into this tube and down to the bowl so the tank never overflows onto the floor.

    A toilet “runs” when water keeps leaving the tank (usually a flapper problem) or keeps entering it (usually a fill valve or float problem).

    Step 1: Find Out Where the Water Is Going

    Before buying parts, spend five minutes diagnosing.

    Check the water level

    Look at the overflow tube. If water is spilling into the top of it, the tank is overfilling and the fill valve isn’t shutting off. That points to the float or fill valve.

    If the water is well below the top of the overflow tube but you still hear running or the tank refills on its own every so often (sometimes called “phantom flushing”), water is leaking past the flapper.

    Try the food coloring test

    Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank and don’t flush for 20 to 30 minutes. If color appears in the bowl, the flapper or flush valve seat is leaking. This test is also a good habit once or twice a year, because slow leaks can be silent.

    Step 2: Fix Flapper Problems

    The flapper is the most common culprit. Rubber hardens, warps and collects mineral deposits over time, so it stops sealing properly.

    Adjust the chain first

    A chain that is too short holds the flapper slightly open. A chain that is too long can get trapped under the flapper. You want a little slack, roughly half an inch, when the flapper is closed. Move the clip to a different link and test a few flushes.

    Clean the flush valve seat

    Turn off the water supply valve behind the toilet (turn it clockwise), flush to drain the tank, and hold a towel ready. Wipe the rim the flapper sits on with a non-scratch scrub pad. Mineral buildup or grit on this rim is enough to break the seal.

    Replace the flapper

    If the flapper feels stiff, slimy, cracked or misshapen, replace it. Take the old one with you to the store or check the toilet’s brand and model (often stamped inside the tank behind the water line). Most toilets use either a 2-inch or 3-inch flush valve, and the flapper must match. Universal flappers from brands such as Korky and Fluidmaster fit many toilets, and some have adjustable settings to control how long they stay open.

    To replace it:

    1. Shut off the water and flush to empty the tank.
    2. Unhook the chain from the handle lever.
    3. Slide the flapper ears off the pegs on the overflow tube (or remove the ring if your flapper uses one).
    4. Install the new flapper, attach the chain with a little slack, and turn the water back on.
    5. Flush several times and repeat the food coloring test.

    Step 3: Fix Fill Valve and Float Problems

    If water is running into the overflow tube, adjust the float so the tank stops filling sooner.

    Adjust a float cup

    On most modern fill valves, there is a long adjustment screw or a clip on a metal rod beside the float cup. Turn the screw or slide the clip to lower the float. The water level should end up about an inch below the top of the overflow tube, or at the water line marked inside the tank.

    Adjust a float ball

    On older toilets with a float ball on an arm, there is usually a screw on top of the fill valve where the arm connects. Turning it lowers the arm. On very old toilets, you might gently bend a brass arm downward, but if it’s that old, replacing the whole fill valve is usually the better move.

    Check the refill tube

    The small flexible tube from the fill valve should clip to the overflow tube and point into it, not be pushed down deep inside it. If the refill tube sits below the water line, it can siphon water continuously. Clip it so its end stays above the water.

    Replace the fill valve

    If the valve hisses, fills slowly, or won’t shut off even after adjustment, replace it. A universal fill valve kit, such as the Fluidmaster 400 series, fits most toilets and comes with instructions. The basic process:

    1. Turn off the water and flush. Sponge out the remaining water.
    2. Put a small bucket under the tank and disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the tank.
    3. Unscrew the large locknut under the tank and lift out the old valve.
    4. Set the new valve’s height according to the instructions, insert it, and hand-tighten the locknut plus a small extra turn with pliers. Don’t overtighten; porcelain cracks.
    5. Reconnect the supply line, attach the refill tube, turn the water on, and set the water level.

    Step 4: Check the Handle

    A sticky handle can hold the flapper open. If the handle doesn’t spring back, tighten the nut inside the tank (it’s often reverse-threaded) or replace the handle. Handles are cheap and take a few minutes to swap.

    When the Flush Valve Itself Is the Problem

    If you’ve replaced the flapper and cleaned the seat, but the food coloring test still fails, the flush valve seat may be cracked or badly pitted. Repair kits exist that glue a new seat ring over the old one. A full flush valve replacement means removing the tank from the bowl, which is still a DIY job but a bigger one. At that point, some people choose to replace the whole toilet, especially if it’s an older, high-water-use model.

    Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

    • Replacement flapper (matched to your flush valve size)
    • Universal fill valve kit, if needed
    • Adjustable wrench or slip-joint pliers
    • Sponge and small bucket
    • Old towels
    • Non-scratch scrub pad
    • Food coloring
    • Rubber gloves

    When to Call a Plumber

    Call a pro if the shutoff valve behind the toilet won’t turn or leaks when you touch it, if you see water on the floor around the base, if the tank or bowl is cracked, or if you’re not comfortable disconnecting the supply line. A stuck or corroded shutoff valve can fail when forced, and that’s a much bigger problem than a running toilet.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Why does my toilet run for a few seconds every so often?

    That’s usually a slow flapper leak. Water seeps into the bowl until the level drops enough to trigger the fill valve. Clean the seat or replace the flapper.

    Can I just jiggle the handle?

    Jiggling can reseat a flapper temporarily, but it won’t fix a worn part or a badly adjusted chain. If you have to jiggle it regularly, make the repair.

    How long does a toilet flapper last?

    It depends on water chemistry and cleaning products. In-tank cleaning tablets can speed up rubber deterioration, so some manufacturers recommend avoiding them. Check the flapper whenever you notice running or phantom flushing.

    Do I need to turn off the water to adjust the float?

    Not usually. You can adjust most floats with the water on and watch the result. Turn the water off for any part replacement.

    Is a universal flapper as good as the brand-specific one?

    Often yes, but some toilets, especially newer low-flow and dual-flush models, use proprietary parts. If a universal flapper doesn’t seal, buy the part made for your toilet’s model number.

    The Bottom Line

    Most running toilets are fixed with a chain adjustment, a new flapper, or a float adjustment, all of which take less than an hour. Start with the diagnosis, change one thing at a time, and test after each step. You’ll stop the noise, save water, and gain confidence for the next repair.

    Editorial note: Fix It Folio is independent and reader-supported. This guide is based on research into manufacturer documentation, published specifications and widely accepted best practices; we have not been paid to mention any product. If we add affiliate links in the future, they will be clearly disclosed per our Affiliate Disclosure.